Jae-sung Hwang , Yoon-ki Cho , Jongil Kim , Won-jae Park , Jinseon Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Retinoids are essential regulators of epithelial cell growth and cellular differentiation. They are also known to be effective in photoaging. It was reported that topical application of retinoic acid improves facial wrinkle caused by collagen synthesis reduction in photodamaged skin. Collagen synthesis by retinoic acid may contribute to the wrinkle effacement. Since cellular retinoic acid binding protein "(CRABPII) is selectively induced in human skin and dermal fibroblasts in vitro by retinoic acid, this response can be used to measure retinoids potency and activity. In order to know the activity of retinoids and their relations with collagen synthesis, we treated dermal fibroblasts with retinoids (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate) for 48 hours at 10-6-10-7M and measured CRABPII mRNA level by quantitative Northern blotting. We also measured the rate of collagen synthesis by retinoids using 3-dimensional dermal equivalent. CRABPII mRNA level was increased 3-fold by retinoic acid, 2.1-fold by retinol and 1.4-fold by retinaldehyde. Collagen synthesis was increased 34% by all-trans retinoic acid, 26% by retinol, 17% by retinaldehyde and 7% by retinyl palmitate. From the above results, retinoids were found to be a potent inducers of CRABPII mRNA and collagen synthesis. Though retinoic acid was the most effective, its use has been restricted because of the side effects. Instead, retinol can be a best candidate in cosmetics for the treatment of photodamaged skin in terms of efficacy and safety.

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Dong-soon Park , Ok-sub Lee , Hak-hee Kang , Jong-il Kim

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Abstract

Using the all-trans-retinol which is double-capsulated with matrix (MDC®), we investigated its stability and the change of the epidermal thickness. The proprietary MDC® comprise two steps of capsulation of retinol, i.e., primary microcapsulation with collagen and then secondary capsulation with gellan gum. We compared the activity of a/htrans-retinol in varices forms such as (1) simply in OAV, (2) in W/O emulsion, (3) in primary capsu lated form in O/W emulsion, or (4)in MDC® in O/W emulsion. After storage at 45°C for 4 weeks, retinol in MDC® in O/W emulsion retained 92% of the activity compared to the standard material upon HPLC analysis, whereas the primary capsule gave 70%, the O/W emulsion form 47% and the W/O emulsion 78%. The retinol in MDC® in O/W induced the siginificant increase in epidermal thickness compared to the vehicle.

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Sun B. K. , Lee H. K. , Cho J. C. , Kim J. I.

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Abstract

Retinol as well as RA is well known to have many beneficial effects on aged skin. But the skin irritation potential and unstable condition of the products containing them have been some problems in their cosmetic uses. So, retinol containing gel product was developed for less skin irritancy and more stability in cosmetic products. To examine the clinical effects of retinlo containing product, we used cilnicla non-invasive assessment techniques on 40 volunteers for 6 months maintaining double-blind test conditions. According to our results, the use of retinol containing product improved skin color and hydration level slightly. But there was no statistical differences. There was no erythema reaction compared to the use of RA. Especially, the skin elasticity increased above 20% and skin wrinkles of crows' feet region decreased more than 10%. Besides the instrumental analysis, a large majority of volnteers felt that their skin were improved in the case of wrunkles, elasticity, hydration and color.

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Hong-keun Ji , Young-hwan Jeon

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Abstract

Retinlyl Palmitate, the skin normalizerm is useful to promote greater skin elasticity, to diminish lipid peroxidation and skin roughness following UV exposure, and promote a youthfulgeneral skin appearance. In manufacturing creams, Retinyl Palmitate, which is a derivative of retinol, is used since reionol is easily oxidized by heat and light. However, only a small mount of retinol, is used since using a large amount of it may be harmful to its stability. In this study, thermal stability and UV stability of W/O-, W/S-, O/W-, and MLV-type creams containing 5% of retinyl palmitate and 10% of tocopheryl acetate are measured by Chroma Meters, and the content of RP is quantitatively analyzed by HPLC at 25 °C and 45 °C. Also, how RP has been changed by heat, light, etc. is measured by HPLC, and toxicity of the changed substance is studied. Particle size of each type of the cream if measured, cellular renewal is measured by using DHP and Chroma Meters in order to study their efficacy and effect, moisture content is measured by using Corneometer and Tewameter, and how much wrinkles are improved is studied by using Image Analyzer. Development of MLV-type cream containing 5% of RP and 10% of TA, and satisfying conditions for better creams has been successful.

Key Words

Retinyl Palmitate(RP), Multilamellar Vesicles(MLV)

Baeksun Ahn , Dongug-sliin , Pangu-jo , Sangie-kim , Hosoon-lim

DOI:

Abstract

It has been used that fluorinated compounds could be applied to cosmetic products. It is that fluori- nated compounds are hydrophobicity and lipophobicity. These fluorinated compounds are reported to form a highly protective and effective film against most aggressive chemical and physical agents. FerfluoropolymethylisopropylEther(PFPE) has homophobicity and are colorless, odorless, tasteless and non-greasy. In this we made a success to formulate the new type of hand care cream using PFPE. PFPE are suitable thickness and chemical inertness to skin. The reason that we select PFPE for this investigation. We developed the new type hand care cream by adsorption and dispersion of PFPE. There are very stable dispersion and highly moisture diffusion control. And these characteristics were verified by actual consumer test.

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Kang Tae Lee , Jeong Ha Kim

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Abstract

To develop an active material for skin darkening, we examined the effect of 300 plants on tyrosinase activity and found only Caesalpinia sappan has an ability to increase tyrosinase activity highly and melanin contents in B-16 melanoma cells. A compound increasing tyrosinase activity and melanin production was isolated from Caesalpinia sappan Lignum. Brazilin was identified as a new active agent. Brazilin increases the tyrosinase activity and malanin production of B-16 melanoma cells. In conclusion, it seems that brazilin can be used as a new sunless tanning agent.

Key Words

Hyun-ho Lee , Young-ho Rhee , Kyung Ae Kim , Jong Kwon Choi , Hun-seung Oh , Sang-hwa Lee , Jin-jun Kim , Cheon Koo Lee , She Hoon Kang

DOI:

Abstract

Some natural polyhydroxy aromatic compounds have inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, key enzyme for formation of melanin pigment. We examined the strucrure-activity relationship of the natural polyhydroxy aromatic compounds and synthesized a number of new derivatives through various methods. Skin lightening effects of these compounds were examined through inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase and inhibition of melanogenesis on B-l6 melanoma cells. These new compounds showed strong inhibitory activity against tyrosinase 1.0 mg/ml-130mg/ml. Good lightening effects due to inhibition of melanogenesis were observed from several resorcinol and pyrogallol derivatives. In toxicological resrs such as skin primary irritation and sensitization, the above compounds were sufficiently safe for cosmetic use.

Key Words

skin lightener, polyhydroxy aromatic, melanin, anti-oxidant, ryrosinase, melanogenesis, natural product, synthesis

Byeong-deog Park , Ki-mu Lee , Ik-ju Park , Young-jin Song , Jung-suk Lee , Myung-jin Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Nowadays, ceramides have been found to be an important component in the outermost layer of the skin - the stratum corneum. It is undersrood that ceramides play an important role in structure and maintenance of the interellular lipid lamella structure in the SC layer. Thus, many efforts have been made by the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries to get human skin-identical ceramides or pseudoceramides which show similar performance with natural ceramides. The purpose of our study was to systhesize new pseudoceramides via an effective and economical systhetic pathway and to show their performance of skin restoratio. Four kinds of the new pseudoceramides were synthesized by the reaction of alcoholic amine and alkyl ketene dimer. First of all, PC-4 and PC-5 were synthesized by the reaction of 3-amino-1,2-propanidiol and serinol with alkyl ketene dimer respectively. After that, PC-4R and PC-5R were produced by changign kitone group at β-position to amide bond of above synthesized PC-4 and PC-5 into hydroxyl group using NaBH4 respectively. Their expected structures were conformed by the NMR, IR spectra, and elemental analysis. A study to show the restoration effectiveness was performed in which human skin was pretreated with high concentration of SDS surfactant solution. Using 0.5% solution of above synthesized pseudoceramides, there was the significantly faster restoration of the damaged than that of placebe itself treatment.

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Su-sun An , Ki-taek Nam , Jong-ho Park , Jae-sook Koh

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Abstract

These days, the raw materials that have the cell recovering effect are used commonly in cosmetics. In this study, six materials were rested for the characteristics of recovering effect both on vivo and in vitro. Tested raw materials were Soypol, 3-APPA, Apple extract, Polygonatum japonicum extract, Scutellarkd baicalensis extract, Aloe extract. Among these materials, Soypol and 3-APPA were synthesized and others were made by extraction at the Pacific R&D Center. Human forearm skin and cultured skin cell were damaged by sodium lauryl sulfare and then raw materials were applied for open treatment on SLS damaged human skin or cells. The recovering effects of raw materials in vivo were evaluated by measuring transepidermal water loss, skin hydration and erythema and in vitro effects of proliferationg cells were assessed by neutral red uptake assay. In the in vivo study, only the evaluation by TEWL showed correlation with the visual score. Our of six materials, 3-APPA had the most positive effect in both in vivo and in vitro studies and the correlation was r=0.8286 (p=0.042).

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Young-ho Cho , Chung-wu Lee , Sung-min Park , Jeong-eun Suh

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Abstract

Phellinus linteus was artificially cultivated in kangwon province in Korea. The air-dried phellinus linteus was frozen in liquid nirrogen rank and powdered in jar. 10g of the powder was extracted with each 200g of ethanol, methanol, distilled water and 1,3- butylene glycol/distilled water (6:4, w/w) 4 hours under refluxing and then the liquid extract was concentrated under reduced pressure. As a result of analysis by high performance liquid chromarography (HPLC) and thin layer chromarography (TLC), many kinds of sugar and flavonoids were derected. Also we knew that pbellinus linteus' extract had a strong UV-ray absorprion. In the efficacy test for applying to cosmetics, free radical scavenging effect was confirnned. As a result, 2% of sample was the most potent inhibitory effect and the free radical scavenging activity (SCV1), was 0.31%. This is more effective than any other material. In the test of antioxidative activity against lipid autoxidation, pbellinus linteus' extract had a good effect by 46% while vitamine E was 42.3%. The immunological activity of pbellinus linteus was showed through the activation of macrophage cell. Actually, Pbellinus linteus activated macrophage function of 1.1-1.8 times including nitrite (NO₂-) production compared to control. The whitening effect of pbellinus linteus was showed through the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, melanin biosynthesis of S. bikiniensis and Bl6 melanoma cells. Phellinus linteus' extract was showed strong mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity with 1C₅₀ value of 0.5% and inhibited melanin biosynrhesis with 28mm inhibition zone at 0.005%/paper disc in S. bikiniensis, a bacterium used as an indicaror organism in this work. Also it inhibited melanin biosynrhesis in Bl6 melanoma cells with minimum inhibitory concentration of 0.134%.

Key Words

pbellinus linteus, B16 melanoma cell, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH), whitening effect, melanogenesis, scavenger, antioxidative activity, immunological activity

Seong-hoon Jeong , Mun-eok Park , She-hoon Kang , Cheon-koo Lee

DOI:

Abstract

The skin permearion study has two meanings in cosmetics. One is how to promore the skin permearion of active materials (e.g. skin whitening agents, anti-ageing agents) for improving their bioavailabilities and the other is how to decrease it of irritants (e.g. preservatives, perfumes, sunscreen agents) for reducing their skin side effects. In this study, we selected methyl paraben (MP), one of the preservatives, as a model irritant and tried to reduce the skin irritation by the decrease of skin permearion. Furthermore, the relationship between skin permeation and skin primary irritation was discussed. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz type diffusion cells (effective diffusional area： 1.766 cm2) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse from 8 weeks old were used. The donor compartment was charged with oil only or O/W emulsion containing 0.3% MP. We selected 19 oils, including esters, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbons, and alcohols, which are broadly used in cosmetics. We determined the oil/water partition coefficient of MP ar 32+C. The skin primary irritation was evaluated with female guinea pig (8-10 weeks, 350-400 g). The skin permeability of MP from the oils showed following order： ester oils > triglycerides > plant oils > hydrocarbons > alcohols We considered that this result was based on the different effect of each oil on the barrier function of stratum comeum. In O/W emulsion containing each oil, the skin permeability of MP decreased as the oil/water partition coefficient of MP increased. The skin primary irritation increased as the skin permeabiliry of MP increased. In conclusion, we suggest that the skin irritation could be reduced by the decrease of skin permeability of MP，which may be obtained by the good selection of oils in cosmetic preparations.

Key Words

Joon-hwan Cho , Ki-moo Lee , Nam-soo Kim , Won-hyoung Kang

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Abstract

To identify inhibitors of melanogenesis, we compared the effects of 5 compounds on mushroom tyrosinase, human melanocytic tyrosinase activity and melanin content. The cytotoxicyty of the components were also tested on cultured human melanoctes. Kojic acid showed marked inhibitory effect both on mushroom and human tyrosinase activity. This action of kijic acid is stronger than that of ascorbic acid. Arbutin inhibited human tyrosinase activity of cultured melanocytes although it had slightly inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase activity. Azelaic acid had no effect on human tyrosinase activity. Melanin production was inhibited significantly by kojic acid and tranexamic acid. MTT assay showed that all of the compounds were non-cytotoxic to melanocytes at the concentrations tested. These results suggest that the effect of kojic acid on cultured meanocytes involve inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis without affection the cell number.

Key Words

Bum-chun Lee , Hyung-bae Pyo , Chung-wu Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Chitin and chitosan have been almost neglected until 1960's although they second largest biomass on earth. Chitosan is a partially deacetylated chitin and belongs to the class of cationic biopolymers. We investigated the antimicrobial activity of chitosan as natural preservatives in cosmetic products. Antimicrobial activity of chitosan against some microorganisms was investigated. The results indicated that chitosan had an effectiveness against some bacteria. We found that chitosan had minimum inhibitory concentrations as low as 100 ppm to S. aureus ATCC 6538, E. coli ATCC 1634 and P. aeruginosa KCTC 2004. But there was not effects to Asp. Niger ATCC 1374 at 1,000 ppm. Also, formulas preserved with chitosan have been subjected to preservative efficacy tests to some microorganisms. Formula preserved with 0.5% chitosan had an effective antimicrobial activity against the Gram (+) and Gram (-) bacteria but not fungi. It is possible to determine the formulas with chitosan, which would be effective to reduce the artificial preservatives.

Key Words

Tae Weon Kim , Ki Yong Lee

DOI:

Abstract

In manufacturing emulsion lipstick in the past, heat and emulsifyoil phase made with oil, wax and lipophilic emulsifier with water phase together; and then mold above-mentioned materials, so-called lipophilic emulsified lipstick production method has been used. However it is hard to manufacture products using the above said method and furthermore, weak in moisturizing effect, lip care and stability. In this paper, I will discuss about multi-emulsion lipstick complementing already existing emulsion lipstick in terms of stability, giving moisturing effect of lip, and outstanding protection effectiveness of skin by safely gelatinating the state between amphiphilic lipid and water in stable.

Key Words

Kim In-young , Kim Min-ho , Nam Sang-in , Chun Kil Whan

DOI:

Abstract

Consumers have recently preferred to purchase extensive UV intercepting products, which are waterproof and free from side effects on skin. Testing Cytotoxicity (in-vitro) in SK method, cell survival ratio of UV-B interceptors decreased above 0.08W/V%, and so did that of UV-A interceptors above 0.06W/V%. Also, Patch-test of inorganic UV interceptors resulted in no skin irritation ever below 10.0 and 11.25. UV interceptors in the sunlight showed yellowish discoloration in 5 to 14 days. In absorption curves, UV-B was most suitable for Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and UV-A for Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane (BMDM). For this reason, Nylonpoly UVA/UVB the material of OMC and BMDM coated with Nylon & polyethylene, was used as the organic UV interceptor. And zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO,) was used as inorganic UV interceptors. The appropriate mixture ratio of ZnO and TiO, was 6 to 4. 6% of ZnO, 4% of TiO, and 5% of Nylonpoly UVA/UVB were all combined with our sunscreen cream. The SPF value of in-vivo applied to a guinea pig was 34.9 and that of in-vivo was 38.5. Cyclomerhicone and dimethicone were used in water-in-Silicone system. Ceryl dimethi-cone and sorbitan sesquiolente were used as emulsifiers and MgSO, · 7 H₂O, Mg-stearate/Mg-Al-stearate copolymer as emulsification stabilizers. In practical application, each SPF duration of O/’W type and W/S type containing sunscreen cream of the same content showed that W/S type of sunscreen cream was 5 times as durable as the other. This product is fit for using in swimming, climbing or skiing. This research is to minimize skin trouble caused by UV interceptors and to make one with proper softness, skin safety and UV intercepting efficiency.

Key Words

Measurement Cyrotoxicity, UV Absorbers, Water-in-Silicone System, SPF, Waterproof Sunscreen Product, Nylonpoly UVA/UVB, ZnO and TiO₂In- vitro and In-vivo

Kim Sung Nam , H. K Pae , Kim Ju Duck

DOI:

Abstract

Key Words

Sang-je Kim , Dong-uk Shin , Phan-gu Cho , Jae-gak Han , Jae-hyung Lim , Baek-sun Ahn , Chul-hee Jung , Gue-sam Lee , Won-sun Oh , Hyun-kwan Jung , Iio-yeun Kim

DOI:

Abstract

lt has been used chat fluorinated compounds could be applied to Make-up products. lt is that fluorinated compounds are hydropliobiciry, lipopliobiciry and lioinophobicitv. These fluorinated compounds are reported ro form a highly prorecrive and effective film againsr most aggressive chemical and physical agents. In this study we made a success to formulate the new type of lipstick using perfluoropolymerhylisopropylether (PPIH, MW- 650. commercial name - Fomblin HC/01 by Ausimont Co.) with low-molecular weight which is long wearing and comfortable (excellent) to use. This PPIE was adsorbed more than 90% in this experinient and formed the well-balanced gei nerworks even if the selected PP1E is 100% volutile ar room remperarure. On the basis of the adsorprion of FPIE, we developed rlie new type lipstick, whicli was highly-lip feeling and had long wearing and non coloration. And these cliaracreristics were verified by acrual consumer test.

Key Words

Adsorption, Turbo-mill, The new type lipstick, Volatile, Perfluropolymethylisopropyl Ether (PPIE), Volatile gel-network

Jong Keun Choi , Jae Bong Choi , Chan Woo Iiur , Jin Woo Kim

DOI:

Abstract

Determination of several cationic surfactants in cosmetics has been invesrigated. Reverse phase ion pair chromarography was used to identify and quantitate cationic surfactants. Cationic surfactants analyzed in this experiment were cetylpyridium chloride (CFO, cetyltri-methyl ammonium chloride (CTAO, stearyltrimetylammonium chloride (STAC), bezalkonium chloride (BKC), benzyldimethylcetylammonium chloride (BDCAC), and bihenylrrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC). The separation was achieved on a reverse phase (C18) column with 10mM HCI-acetonitrile eluent. In this condition, the most of cationic surfactants with exception of CPC and CTAC were easily separated from each other. In contrast to CTAC, CPC absorbs UV light (λ (max = 263nm). Thus, based on this fact, we were able to characterize and quantitate CPC and CTAC respectively with suppressed conductivity detector (SCD) and UV detector connected in series. The calibration curves obtained by plotting the peak areas of the cationic surfactants were linear at levels ranging from 0.005 to 0.1% (correlation coefficient, r = 0.9988 (0.9998). The detection limits were 1 to 5ppm (25ng (125ng) in sample solution. The average recoveries of cationic surfactants added to hair treatment cream and hair rinse in three to five experiments were 96.7 (105.2% and relative standard deviations were 1.1-3.8%. The case that there were CPC and CTAC in same solution was also tested. CHC and CTAC which couldn’t be separated on reverse phase column were quantitated with suppressed conductivity detector and UV detector connected in series. Recovery of CPC and CTAC were 101.6 and 89.2% respectively. The proposed method was applied to the determination of cationic surfactants in commercial hair treatment cream.

Key Words

cosmetic, reverse phase ion-pair chromatography(RPIPC), cationic surfactants, suppressed conductivity deterctor(SCD), UV detector